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Reviews (2)
May 12, 2016
Great first 3D printer if you're willing to put in the hours
15 of 15 found this helpful If you're looking for a 3D printer that will be up and running in 1/2 an hour then this is not the printer for you. If you're looking for a printer that's simple to put together (e.g. Ikea flat pack) then this printer is not for you. However, if you're looking for a challenge, have a natural aptitude for all things mechanical, are handy with a Google search and are not phased by vague instructions then this is the project for you.
This is my first 3D printer. I have no previous experience, but have a background in electronics, and love to tinker with things. It took me 4 evenings to carefully put this kit together. It then took me an evening to figure out how to calibrate it. Finally, it took me another two evenings to get a decent printout from the printer. I've now had it built and running for a couple of weeks, and am very pleased with the results I'm now getting.
The good:
The kit was very cheap. It was packaged very well in a large box with lots of foam. All parts were embedded in separate compartments in the foam, so no chance of anything getting broken. The Y and X assemblies came pre-built. No soldering was required. No firmware update was required (although it looks like you could do if you want). The kit stated that it came with 1/2 KG of cear PLA filament, but actually arrived with 1 KG. Also came with a 4GB SD card which has the instructions in a word document.
The bad:
Some of the pre-built parts were not built with a great deal of attention (e.g. motors wrong way around). None of the motors were fitted to the frame with washers, and hence the bolts had dug into the soft ply-wood (I suggest removing the motors and re-fitting with washers). Though the build instructions are fairly good from a structural point of view, the electronics, calibration and commissioning instructions are not explicit enough alone.
Some advice if you decide to go ahead with this printer:
1. Don't fit the power socket until the z-axis motors have been installed into the frame. You'll only have to remove it again.
2. Be very careful with the glass bed. I broke mine while repacking the pre-built printer parts back into their box. I replaced it with a sheet of glass from a picture frame. Glass cutting is surprisingly easy and the thinner glass does not cause a problem.
3. Add washers to all the motor mounts, and anywhere else the bolts are installed directly against the wood.
4. for wiring info, check out the geeetech wiki (google geeetech GT2560).
5. LCD connector goes from top socket on the LCD display to the top socket on the main-board, bottom socket is for SD-CARD, and connects to bottom socket on motherboard.
6. Check the output voltage on the power supply before connection to the motherboard with a multimeter.
7. Use extra washers to align the z-axis end-stop switch with the adjustable bolt. Set the end-stop so that it doesn't crash into the glass. Do this before you first try the auto-home feature.
8. Add a spacer to the wooden board under the heated bed to offset the y-axis. You want the y-axis end-stop set so that the extruder head stops above the front left hand corner of the glass, and does not foul on the bulldog clips when the x-axis moves.
9. Make sure that both sides of the x-axis run parallel with the bed.
10. The motors will not move away from the end-stops (see move axis under the prepare menu) until the auto-home operation has been completed.
11. I found that 70 degrees was not hot enough for the PLA to stick to the bed. I use 100 degrees for the bed.
12. I also find that the best temperature for the extruder is about 200 degrees. This allows the filament to flow quickly which eliminates back pressure in the extruder.
13. When starting a print, it is advisable to slow the print down for the first few layers. This will give the best adhesion to the bed. This can be done by turning the dial down on the control panel while in the main status display. I tend to start at about 15% and work my way up to a speed just below that which causes clicking in the extruder from back-pressure.
14. I have been successful with a z layer height of anywhere between 0.05mm and 0.3mm.
15. Make sure that the x-axis band does not foul on the plastic frame on the idler side. Mine has been warn a little by rubbing on it. After discovering this, I shortened the band by a few teeth which solves the problem nicely.
16. Think about some upgrades. I have so far only printed a filament guide from thingiverse (search 'Berlin guide', many other upgrades are available.
17. If any of the wooden parts get broken, a little wood glue is a good thing.
18. Find the original plastic parts on thingieverse and make yourself some spares (search for ritaxiang for what looks like the correct parts).
19. Build the whole thing on a piece of wood (i used an MDF board about 700x700mm). This will stop everything going out of calibration when you move it.
Jun 25, 2022
The most functional watch you can buy
Love this watch. It really is a go anywhere, do anything watch.
It's comfortable, easy to read in the light or dark, and always has the correct time thanks to its multiband receiver. The solar charging means it should never need a battery replacement, and the power indicator let's me know how much sun its getting.