About
I'm a Physics Lab Technician at a small college. During the 1980s I trained as electronic technician, technologist and engineer.
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Reviews (4)
Feb 06, 2018
Works but needs tinkering during assembly
1 of 1 found this helpful The three plastic handles were all too long and wouldn't screw on the threaded handles. Had to get a box-knife and slice 1/4" off the ends, then they screwed on. Needed one washer from my junk box..
There are no English instructions. You must properly align the cross brushes in X, and attach the Leyden Jar spring electrodes into the jars. Then fasten the ground bus terminals.
The plastic base was cracked and rocked back and forth, so had to glue and add 4 rubber feet on it.
After about 30 minutes of repairs and tinkering, it worked fine with fat 1.5 inch long sparks. It's not too dangerous, I accidentally zapped myself without too bad a shock. There is no Y-handle capacitor discharger that comes with it, even though it mentions that here in listing.
Jul 01, 2016
Handles are too short
I attempted to use it to rivet six M6x1 mm steel riv-nuts to install two Jeep gas tank skid plates.
It screwed onto the riv-nut easily, and it inserted it in the recessed cutouts in the bottom of the car ok. But I guess I'm a wimp, because I was unable to pull hard enough on the two handles to crimp the first nut (laying on my back underneath the Jeep with it raised on ramps). I loosened it a bit until the handles angled down to 45 degrees, but I still couldn't budge it.
I finally cut two 10" lengths of 1.5" diameter pipe and slid these over the handle ends to give me more leverage. With a knee against one handle and two hands on the other handle, it barely crimped. What a struggle. When I got to the sixth nut I was worn out, and didn't quite crimp it enough. When I put a bolt in it and began to tighten it, the nut rotated and wouldn't tighten. It rotates when I try to get it out also. And I can't get to the back. Now, how do I get that bolt out to recrimp the nut?
The two page sheet of paper with this rivet kit says to carefully read the operating instructions before using it, but there aren't any. Page 2 has a parts list.
So, you'd better have a lot of muscle to use this light duty crimper.
Feb 16, 2018
Ok for landscapes but not for star photos
2 of 2 found this helpful I take Star photos, Northern Lights and meteor shots; so I need a fast lens. My Tamron 28mm f/2.5 BBAR 02B is sharp; so I expected this 24mm one to be sharp too But the ten element 24mm has heavy flare on bright stars, and edge coma-distortion. Look at the flaws in the attached photo of the Milky Way rising over the Mountains--Cygnus and Lyra visible. Vega the big flaring star at top centre in Lyra. Notice bright stars around the right top are half-circles.
No matter how I focused, I couldn't get any sharper. I put a little millimetre scale on the lens focus ring and moved it from 0mm to 6mm from infinity end, taking test shots every 1 mm. Dim stars were sharpest at 3mm, but bright stars flare. Flare not as bad at 5mm, but it was overall fuzzy then, so it appears the flare is ghosting from an element that focuses it slightly above the focal plane. And the focal plane isn't flat, it curves up around edges to cause coma tilt.
I tried a lens hood as well, but no improvement, except it didn't frost up in the minus 22 night.
Perhaps it's a nice wide angle lens for landscapes and mountains. But not for stars.