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Reviews (29)

May 08, 2019
Very Good Quality, Huge Selection
I only needed one O ring for a nice watch I wanted to re-sealed after a battery replacement. I was not sure what size. This looked the best kit. I now have the almost untouched kit in my dresser drawer, waiting for the next watch.
IMPORTANT: make sure you lubricate the O ring before installing. Do not use just any lubricant. Use the special kit. You will find it where you found this one. Installing dry can ruin the O ring. Excessive amount of lubricant, or wrong lubricant can leak into the watch and cause big trouble.

May 08, 2019
Install Carefully, Keep Clean
1 of 1 found this helpful How do you tell the top from bottom? The top has no film on it. The bottom does. Actually, the area around the exact shape stays on the backing, as if the glass is die-cut. Do not touch the glue side!
Clean the top lenses area very well; no fingerprints, no smudges and absolutely No Dust!
Pleasr note the OEM glass cover is very difficult to dirt. This screen is quite easy to dirt. It is not oleophobic at all. It appears oleophyllic. So keep the new glass cover clean or your pictures will look bad.
Why keep it on when the OEM lenses are so good and these new ones are not? I you abuse your phone, you will bang and scratch the rear cameras. These [imperfect] camera lens shields will protect the cameras. Cleaning them only takes seconds and is very easy. It is worth the extra effort.
Jan 18, 2011
Not a Toy
4 of 4 found this helpful I am using this printer under Linux.
Before I go back to what this printer is, IMHO, let me re-cap, for the few Unix
users out there:
* O/S Variant: Gentoo Linux, It really doesn't matter.
* Connectivity: USB, and USB only. T
* Spooler: CUPS, version 1.4.5. PPD file is the standard cups Gutenprint
"driver" for this exact printer.
* I tried the Epson/Avasys ESC/P-R driver and managed to re-compile the
package. Do not listen to Epson, this driver is what they preach, but what
it really is a lowest common denominator of the entire series of Epson
Stylus. This is _not_ what this printer needs and it does not work anyway.
I also tried pips-lite. While I could not find any documentation explaining
what this is good for, I gather it is another ESC/P-R "driver".
Do not waste your time on it.
NOTE: to Windows/MAC users. I suspect that these two packages are available
on your platform. Do your homework before you install, and your judgement
after.
* User-Interface: Gimp, version 2.6.11. I am sure that Windows/MAC users feel
that Adobe software is far superior, but for adjusting image attributes,
what else can be done that Gimp does not already do?
In any case, Gimp price/performance is far superior to any Adobe package;
Now to the printer. As I said, it is not a toy. Compared to (even) an HP 6500
printing a web page on plain paper, it is painfully slow.
Compared to the workflow in a small photolab (photographic analog process we all
scoff at, but are yet to be able to quite match in terms of image quality -
which this printer gets close to), it is very reasonable.
Media: This printer is marketed as a specific glossy paper handler, and it does
a very good job at it. Tuned correctly, there will be no bronzing or any
other noticeable artefact, but truth be told the gloss (very good) is not
quite as shiny and sparkling as the Kodak Professional Glossy Photo Inkjet
Paper (CAT 142 9984) prior to printing. Yes, Kodak paper on Epson printer.
What a concept, but Kodak has been in the photographic imaging for a while
and actually know a thing or two about printing.
Image: The R1900 is marketed for portrait photography (it even used RED, and
ORANGE inks for this purpose). It is capable of producing excellent
portraits But much (de)tuning is needed. Colours are too vibrant.
Inks: Epson Original. The GO cartridge ran out after 10 8.5x11" prints.
Yes, 10 (ten).
Settings: At least under Gimp/Gutenprint, there are dozens upon dozens of
controls. I understand some, tried few, can guess at many, and have no
idea (yet) what others do.
Defects: for banding-free prints, stick to the "Ultra Photo" setting.
Also, if you get banding even at "Ultra Photo", run a "Head Cleaning"
procedure (in CUPS).
Backside: After about 5-6 prints the leading edge of the backside of the
paper started getting some black/grey smearing. I will have to try one
of those "printer cleaning paper" packages.
Beware: Every head cleaning, once a day (at least), every time you open the lid
of the printer, it will go through some calibration procedure. This sucks
lots of ink.
Built-In Obsolescence: After certain amount of ink gone through, the printer
will pack-up and quit. Get a resetter program!
Summary: Using it is holding a tiger by the tail. Bea